Here is the thing about South Asia…
I have no idea.
How do
you describe this place? How do you explain why it is the way it is or why
people are the way they are? I could tell you what I’ve seen, but then you
would be just like me: consuming a culture you do not understand, loving the
adventure but not the person. This is not Africa. People don’t generally come
here. People don’t suddenly develop a heart for this city. Mother Teresa, the only woman who stuck
around long enough to actually have an impact, actually disliked the place and
yet found, deep within herself, an ability to love it simultaneously.
I am sure you have heard or seen movies about the sheer
number of people and vehicles inhabiting this decaying city. You may have even
read statistics about the pollution that clogs your lungs within minutes of
stepping outside. If you are
really educated – or have done research like my pre-deployment self – you would
know the British built this beautiful, cutting edge metropolis that hasn’t been
touched since the day they left.
And with modern access to the world, you have probably stumbled across
articles of those kids living outside my apartment, playing in the feces and
bacteria infested trash because their parents will not let them go to the free
schools now available in town. But what you don’t know is that every single
person I have met has been helpful, loving, genuine and kind-hearted. The Hindu
women are resilient and strong. The men are honorably doing their job as they
are told. The children are learning to survive and smile at the same time. The
dogs are gentle and steady. The neighbors seek your friendship almost
desperately. And the cars wont harm you if you don’t put yourself in harms
way.
What I have concluded so far is this is truly just a place
of survival. People do not have the means or the energy for upkeep (would you
at 115 degrees Fahrenheit with 100% humidity and dollar-a-day wages?) The mobs
of curious people and lawless cars are truly dangerous but the individuals are
not. I am convinced even the petty thieves feel horrible about doing so.
So while it is easy to hate this city. And I mean it is
truly easy to hate this city. It is extremely fulfilling to love it as well.
And while I am still cautious about who to trust and I still
pray with incredible fervor every time I step into an auto, I am also hopeful
that I will learn to see life here as my own. I pray to one day sit down with
the kids outside my apartment and have a meal with them. I pray the anxiety I
feel during the height of rush hour turns to laughter. I pray to one day feel
comfortable enough to stop on the sidewalk and look at my surroundings. I pray
I can actually learn Bengali. I pray for a community both inside and outside
the church. And if you were willing, I would be honored if you would pray for
these things as well.
People say this is the city of joy. People say this is the
city that was once of joy. People say this is the city of darkness and decay. I
say this is a city that has been grossly misjudged.